Saturday 30 June 2012

Stroud Green Beans – Vagabond

I can remember a time when ‘good coffee’, to most people in this country, myself included, meant anything made in a drip filter. Espresso was something wildly exotic that you got in other countries. ‘Bad coffee’ meant anything instant made from dried jarred powder and boiled water. We have come a long way since then, and the quality continues to rise in London. Even in Islington (or maybe, being on this side of the road, Haringey). The takeover in recent years of London’s quality coffee scene by a band of mostly antipodeans, combined with admirably obsessive coffee nerds from around the world, means that ‘bad coffee’ now means anything from Starbucks, Costa Coffee or the like, and ‘good coffee’ means something sourced and produced with loving attention to detail, usually by a coffee-fanatic of some kind and sometimes the holder of a special Oscar-style coffee-award. Some wonderful places have opened up, such as Prufrock in Leather Lane, which is staffed entirely by coffee champions but still has a welcoming and un-snobbish atmosphere.

When I heard that the coffee revolution had spread to Stroud Green Road, I made the scenic walk under the Finsbury Park railway bridge to check it out. I can now not-very-exclusively reveal that the rumours are true. Vagabond is a cute little place on the corner with a pleasant whiff of coffee-geekery about it. I want coffee made by a coffee geek. I can make normal coffee at home. Another thing I liked about it was that it felt more ‘Bohemian’ (pretentious word but you know what it means) and less like ‘gentrification’ (even more horrible word) than the nearby Front Room Cafe and Boulangerie Bon Matin. There are bags of coffee, coffee paraphernalia, and great coffee-related photos, all over the shop. The coffee itself is the real thing, the good stuff, ‘Has Bean’ coffee, with nicely-executed ‘latte-art’ on the milk options. If I lived around the corner I would come here every day. As it is, I’ll just have to think of some nearby places to write about so I can stop by for a fix afterwards.





Vagabond
Unit 20, Charter Court, Stroud Green Rd
London N4 3SG

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